THE PYRAMID DRESS

Preliminaries  - POST IN PROGRESS

This is another really simple pattern to stitch up but it does require some pre planning and conceptual wrangling. I hope this helps. 

  1. Length - how long do you want your dress
  2. What kind of hem - circular or handkerchief (four points)
  3. Fabric choice - fabric with drape (soft or more open weave) will stretch from the weight of the bias and mold to the figure. In a tighter weave the dress will not elongate as much - it's up to you.
  4. Seam finishing - you are given two options on the pattern for stitching the front/back, and side seams. The corners can be either curved or a sharp corner (explained later). Depending on how tight your weave and the kind of drape your fabric yields may determine which one you choose, however both will work. 
  5. Shape of neckline and closure
  6. Seam Allowances are not included on the inside piece that you remove, I recommend about 3/8" or according to how you would like to finish the edges.

Below is the original sample you see on the original legacy pattern cover -

heavy weight wool loosely woven 

Next Steps - Tea Length Circular Hem (shown below in a polyester crepe woven jersey)

aquarpyramid.jpg

 

 

 

 

Cutting and Layout - 5 yards depending

  • It is best to use fabric that is at least 58" wide, the wider the better but feel free to play and add panels to the hem to make the fabric wider/ longer.
  • The shape you see in the center of the single pattern piece acts something like a cookie cutter - you are working with negative space. You will subtract or remove this piece from the center of the fabric. Either trace your size out and place on fabric or remove your size from the larger sheet and lay the large paper piece with cut out removed on the fabric - trace and cut - don't forget to add seam allowance!
  • Take a moment to notice which direction of the pattern piece is the front and back and which direction is the side seams.
  • The legacy pattern places the grainline running with the side seams and the center front and back run crossgrain (selvedge to selvedge) making the dress length to be determined by the width of the fabric. For the longer circular hem - I layout the center front and back running with the grainline so the front and back length can be as long as I want or as long as my fabric length. To add length on the sides - stitch a panel along each of the selvedge lengths. So if you cut the dress out of 2.5 yards, take another 2.5 yards, cut this down the center on grain creating two lengthwise halves, then stitch each half onto the side hems or selvedges. Alternately, If you cut out the dress in 3 yards, you will need another 3 yards halved to extend the side length. See below:

 

PUTTING TOGETHER

  1. It is recommended to thread baste each seam line and baste seams together along with darts before beginning. There is only a small amount of seaming so this step will go by quicker than you think.
  2. Hang the dress for about a week, in this process it should be expected that the darts will shift down as the dress elongates allowing for a molding effect to the body. Therefore expect that the darts will need to be adjusted. Remember that bust darts (depending on who you ask) should end no closer than .5" from the apex of the bust. 

TIPS

As suggested in the legacy pattern, you may want the front flair to lay flatter against the tummy. To do this there is the option of tacking the inside fold over to one side and attaching to the side seam or by splitting the front fold into two halves spreading equally across the front. Then I stitched from the center front seam out to each side fold. Then I attached a small piece of seam tape to hold each side in place. This works if your fabric is quite opaque. See images below (stitching is a little rough since I have been working over this muslin):